The Importance of (weather)

The snow doesn’t give a soft white damn whom it touches.  ~e.e. cummings

It is a strange day indeed. The weather has decided to do what it always does and embarrass anyone who tries to predict it.  We here at Qupé are confronted on two fronts.  In the mid-west our wine club members are suffering through a brutal cold front, and the wines don’t fare much better.  We shipped out our first club shipment of the year and almost instantly started getting phone calls. Our shipper tried to get our wines out fast, but nature makes fools of us all, and low and behold our wines froze in transit.  The calls sounded something like this:

Club Member: “Hi, I am calling from (state east of California) and I just received my wine club shipment. Thing is two of the bottles were open?”

Rob in the Tasting Room: “Let me ask you this, are the bottles really cold?

Club Member: “Yeah, how did you know?”

Rob: “Lucky guess….”

Now here is the funny part (unless you live somewhere there is a blizzard right now). Central Coast California is going through a bit of a hot spell… Now this may sound like bragging to those of you up to your chins in snow, but it is a real concern for us.  At the heart of all great wine makers is a farmer, and farmers are indebted to the weather.  As a farm we depend on our crop, and our crop is only happy when it gets some sleep during the winter.  Nature works in cycles, times of production and times of rest.  Right now we would normally be in  a time of rest but nature works in accordance with all its elements, temperature included.  So when in January it decides to be 65 degrees (5 to 6 degrees off our average for a year) our vines get exceptionally confused.  And here comes the bad part…

When our vines fail to fall asleep, they fail to make up their mind for the rest of the year. Now all of this sounds very “holistic” but what this ultimately equates to is a question of energy.  Vines have a limited amount of energy, and that energy is either spent “digging” or growing vegetation (fruit and leaves).  Now the challenge of the farmer is to convince the vine to do a little of all of the above.  Ultimately our goal is to convince the vine to dig deep enough to extract mineral components and other flavor compounds from the soil as well as to convince the fruit to reach high enough into the sky to express the characteristic of the grape.  So this little change in the weather may (or may not) result in a change in the fruit.

The best case scenario, the vines enjoy an unpredicted “root” growth spurt.  The worst case, the plants fail to sleep and spend their energy trying to grow their  vines.  Should this occur and there be an early season frost there is a great danger that early blooming on the vines, will result in the untimely demise of our grapes.  Can you spell catastrophe? So this is the Mexican Stand Down we have. Wah, Wah, Wah, Dooh, Dooh.

Good, Bad, and Ugly the importance of weather is that we are beholden to it. We pray for it and suffer for it. It brings us the rain and the sun. It is our life and our loss.  In the end our winter may be bitter, but our vintage sweet indeed.  Only time will tell.

Tech Installment numero uno

Tuesday January 25th 6:00am Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard Edna Valley San Luis Obispo. 45 degrees 76% Humidity  Barometric Pressure 30.05 and rising Visibility 10 Miles

Applying D-8 to the vineyard

D-8 is a dilution of ash made from the incinerated corpses of pests; in this case the gopher.  Although the process sounds rather gruesome, this is a much more humane method of pest control than traps or conventional pesticides.  Nature in her infinite wisdom blessed our subterranean visitor with a heightened sense of awareness.  This helps to keep them in tune with the soils, and when they detect the D-8 they know it’s not safe and never enter the vineyards.  Because D-8 is made from all natural material it has no environmental impact on our soils or our vineyard workers who can apply the D-8 without the cumbersome uncomfortable safety equipment necessary with chemical pest controls.  Preventative measures like this are key to Bio dynamics.  By operating within the construct nature has given us we are not concerned with pests, we don’t get them.

Our Faithful Tractor and Sprayer preparing to hit the vineyard D-4 is the concentrate we make D-8 from. It’s preserved in Vodka We make the D-8 by starting in the 1.5oz measurement then increasing the dilution till we reach a 100 gallons.

In the beginning Bob…

Let me take a few moments to introduce myself.  My name is Rob and I am the newest member of the Qupé team.  I am a recent transplant to the Central Coast, and have been given the great honor of coming on board to work in the tasting room and write blogs.  Well maybe not just that, but you get the gist.  As a wine nerd of long standing, I have really looked forward to the day when I could work with a winery whose wines I loved and whose values matched mine.  I have been blessed to find it here in Qupé.  I am exploring, as you can imagine and let me say there is a lot to explore.  I’ve debated over and over (5 drafts worth) of where to start and where to go.  Fortunately for me Qupé has a rich history, deeply rooted in the communities of the Central Coast.  It has long relationship with the land and the people who own it.  And it has lifelong friends who are almost as quirky as Qupé itself.  So I guess the only real place to start is at the start.

Bob at Zaca Mesa in 1982

The year is 1982 and Qupé has just been released. Trading slave labor for space, Bob is working at the Zaca Mesa winery facility and trying to remember why he wanted to do this in the first place.  On the radio Paul McCartney and Stevie Wonder have just released Ebony and Ivory (what? it was a big deal).  Across the country, the World’s Fair opens its gates on Saturday, May 1, in Knoxville Tennessee, blissfully unaware that it was inspiring Matt Groening to write one of my favorite Simpsons episode some 14 vintages later.  And Time Magazine did something unprecedented (and important for this blogger), giving its Person of the Year award to a personal computer.  Almost as important, on Sunday the 19th of September Scott Fahlman posted the first recorded emoticon on an online billboard :-) . Thank you Scott.

Now one of the things I am discovering about Qupé is that Bob did not read that edition of Time Magazine.  Instead he buried his nose in a glass and kept doing what he does best: being a modern stone age wine maker.  Now if you’re like me you suddenly had a vision of a bearded man hitting his computer with a wooden club.  You’re not too far off.  Bob is not an iPhone-carrying, techno-weenie wine maker (sorry iPhone-carrying, techno-weenie wine drinkers).  He is one of the 50 most influential wine makers in the world(Wine and Spirits Magazine) making the best Syrah under $20 (Food and Wine Magazine ’00-’06).  Frankly, he’s making the best Syrah over $20 as well, but don’t take my word for it.  I’m just a blogger that’s found a home with a group of wine glass carrying cavemen.

Time has passed and our cave wall pictographs have fallen out of style.   We’re not advertising with smoke signals anymore and our national sales rep is getting tired of the carrier pigeons outside his window.  Bob still uses a cellphone the size of pterodactyl egg, but he’s embraced a new day and opened the winery doors to a modern crowd.  Which is where I come in.  I want to help show the world how our belief in the farming practices of old are being represented in our biodynamic Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard.  I want people to

Left to right Paige Bob Ethan and Louisa

try the wines of the second generation of Lindquist wine makers by coming to the tasting room and meeting Ethan Lindquist.  I want people to see our support of the pioneers in wine, pioneers like Louisa Lindquist who is making wines with cool climate Spanish varietals under our Verdad Label. More than anything I want you, our readers, to know who these people are so when you drink our wines you can taste a little bit of our home and our love in it.  And we promise no matter how many blogs we start, we won’t change our commitment to the stone age.  So don’t be surprised when the next blog is chiseled on stone tablets.

Cheers!